Another Mexican

Eastside Road, April 29, 2013—

NOT MUCH TO look at, is it? Well, that's in the nature of a garden-variety Mexican combination plate. Here you see chile verde (with pork), rice, and beans; the flour tortillas are out of sight on one side, the guacamole on the other.

I have to say, the chile verde was pretty darn good. The rice and beans, well, they are what they (always) are, rather bland accompaniments to help offset the heat of the chile.

Just before sitting down to write this, I looked the place up on Yelp. As often happens, the reviews are divided: some really really like the place; others say it's ordinary and complain about the service. There was one person working the floor, and I think she helps out in the kitchen as well. The whole place has a mom-and-pop feel about it. It's down home and authentic (to Cal-Mex traditions, mind you, not those of any hifalutin regional Mexican cuisine).

The salsa that came with the chips was very good indeed, and I had great reports on the pozole. And, oh boy, does this stretch of highway need a good place for a relaxed dinner.

Red house wine

• La Casona Del Cielo, 44901 Highway 101, Laytonville, California; (707) 984-8226