Three Squares

Santa Rosa, California, April 30, 2013—

A CURIOUS WAY to serve a Caesar Salad, don't you think? In fact the salad itself was very close to authentic: Romaine, egg, Parmesan, anchovy, croutons. But the salad was not prepared, merely set forth as its ingredients. Fortunately knife and fork were at hand; it was the work of a moment to chop the thing up. But why not do that in the kitchen?

Oh well: the Pozole was more or less blended in the kitchen. But it was a little bit revisionist: raw sliced radishes, shredded cabbage, toasted taco strips, and some kind of farmer's cheese were tossed onto the bowl of red chili-and-tomato flavored stew. Very little hominy, and meat whose flavor seemed just a bit off to me. An odd dish, I thought, which would have been quite satisfying had the meat been better. But not Pozole, I think.

But I had blueberry pie for dessert — a favorite pie of mine, one I get maybe every three years. It was just the way I remember blueberry pie used to be, and the vanilla ice cream on the side was very nice.

White blend, Sonoma coast; Zinfandel, Limerick Lane, ?2011: Nice authentic old vines-type regional wine

• Three Squares Café, 205 Fifth Street, Santa Rosa; 707-545-4300