Back to bacalhau

Hotel Principe, Lisboa, April 7, 2013—

IN MY CONTINUING research into bacalhau, the delicious salt cod so dear to the Iberian peninsula — though "subcontinent" seems to me a more accurate geotype — I happily chose it from amonga large number of possibilities on this evening's menu at a small restaurant, not much more than a diner actually, one of the few places open this Sunday evening in the vicinity of our hotel. (In fact, the only alternative we found was a McDonald's.)

For the first time this trip, the plate arrived with a shelled hard-boiled egg alongside the simply cooked salt-cod steak, the boiled potatoes, and a handful of good green beans. A very simple meal, quite satisfying, with an almod salt-caramel tart for dessert.

Blanco, Adega de Pegoes, 2012: very nice balance, deep flavor, good finish

• Restaurante O Moisès, Av. Duque d'Avila, 121-123, Lisbon; 213.140.962
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