Oakland, California, April 23, 2013—
WELL, ANYWAY, I call it Cuban, though clearly there's a big Mexican influence here too. We've been meaning to try this place for quite a while: another Chez Panisse spinoff, by which I do not mean a wannabe, not at all: I mean a fine restaurant opened by an alumnus (in this case alumna) of the Chez P kitchen, with all the Chez P values intact: authenticity, intelligence, ethics, attentiveness.I thought I'd lunch simply, on this nice big bowl of pozole verde: billed on the menu as "Mexican Chiken Soup w/Hominy & Lime," but with textural interest from cabbage and finely chopped radish, and with lots of deep flavor.
But my lunchmate had other ideas, and I shared her crisp chicken taco with beans and an avocado salsa; and the guacamole she ordered on the side, and a very nice salad with blood orange, jicama, lettuce, cucumber, pumpkin seeds, and lemon vinaigrette. Everything was so pointed in flavor, so fresh and clean, so appetizing; and the setting so nice, and the day so perfect: I could have spent the rest of the day there, with maybe another glass or two of
Rosé, Cultivar Vineyard (Napa)
• Cosecha, 907 Washington Street, Oakland; 510-452-5900
2 comments:
Charles:
There was a delightful little episode on Rick Bayless's cooking show recently.
Apparently, Jacques Pepin has a winter house in Playa del Carmen resort in Mexico, and Rick visited him there for a joint show on the preparation of their respective fish dishes.
It's here--
http://livewellnetwork.com/Mexico-One-Plate-At-A-Time/episodes/Rick-and-Jacques-Two-Chefs-at-Playa/7582761
Pepin is noticeably more relaxed than he typically is on his own show, and the kitchen scenes are filmed right in his spiffy little condo kitchen. Rick bosses him around, and makes him seem like an amateur. But they seem like bosom friends.
A number of friends watch a number of cooking shows. Another friend tells me from time to time about interesting shows with Anthony Bourdain. We don't seem to find the time to watch these; I wish we did — you can't do everything.
We've met both Bayless and Pepin, Lindsey of course more than me. They both seem like nice guys. Pepin's memoir, My Life in the Kitchen, is well written, fascinating, well worth reading.
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