Lamb, lamb, lamb

Hotel Santa Clara, Évora, Portugal, April 10, 2013—

OF ALL THE MEAT that we can eat, Virgil used to sing, Chicken, beef, or ham; the one that tickles my palate the most is lamb, lamb, lamb.

Especially cooked like this: browned in olive oil, sprinkled with a little white wine, and cooked very slowly with a little thyme and a lot of garlic. Tonight's lamb was mostly cubes of meat, with a bit of backbone and a knuckle, and my serving included a kidney, and lots of beautiful creamy little potatoes.

Dessert was a little custard tart with a preserved whole plum, very nice.

Alentejo, Casa de Sabicos, 2008, rich and big and mature

• Dom Joaquim, Rua de Penedos, 6, Évora; 266 731 105


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