Sunday, April 28, 2013


Ashland, Oregon, April 28, 2013—

WE'VE BEEN MEANING to return here for a while now, and somehow never got around to it until today. Billed as a "bistro," with reproductions of Art Nouveau posters on the walls and French popular music playing over the sound system, the menu runs to bistro standards, plus the inevitable hamburger.

I opened with a salade aux frisée et lardons, with a nice sherry-vinegar dressing and a somewhat over-poached egg on top; then this plate of perfectly cooked duck breast, on a bed of polenta and not-quite-authentic collard greens, with a not overly sweet Grand Marnier sauce. Not bad; not bad at all.

Vuvray, Domaine Pichot, le Peu de la Moriette, 2011 (nice character); Vaqueyras, Jean-Marie Arnoux, 2010 (a little bland)

• Loft Brasserie & Bar, 18 Calle Guanajuato, Ashland; (541) 482-1116

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