Bacalhau and lamb

Hotel Principe, Lisboa, April8, 2013—

NEARLY EVERYONE WE SEE here on the streets is small: even among tourists I feel unusually tall. And yet the servings in the restaurants are huge . Here, for example, a good-sized portion of roast lamb is completely smothered under its vegetables: potatoes, onions, peppers, green beans.

Well, it's better than too little: we worked hard today, up many flights of stairs and down, seven kilometers of cobbled sidewalk Lindsey says, not to mention the violent tram rides. I don't feel any bigger for our diet these last few days in Portugal.

Porca de Murça (Douro), 2011: very nice, forward, appetizing

• Martinho da Arcada, Praça do Comércio, 3, Lisboa; +351 218 879 259

EARLIER IN THE DAY a good-sized grilled ham-and-cheese made a suitable lunch at a café also on the Praça do Comércio, and we had some nice little deep-fried sardines and bacalhau croquettes with a glass or two of house red before dinner, because we were starved…