Les Contamines-Montjoie, Haute-Savoie, July 6, 2016—I REMEMBERED THIS TOWN as having provided the worst meal of my month on the GR5 back in 2008, and was determined to do better this time. We dined in
a restaurant recommended to us by the proprietor of a cheese-and-sausage shop, a Norman who seemed to know his stuff.
We'd already noticed the restaurant: Curt said we should eat there, as restaurants with dogs in their names were generally superior to their neighbors. (I wondered if I'd ever before noticed a restaurant named for a dog: but then, I'm not a dog person.)
My first course (entrée) was simple enough to choose: tarte a la tomate confite et son pesto de roquette, a grilled stewed tomato on a thin pastry shell, dotted with pesto, served with a roquette salad.
Next (plat principal), paillard de veau au grill, sauce au foin. Who could resist grilled veal scallops with hay sauce? The veal was nicely cooked, perhaps a tiny bit dry, and its thin, focussed, flavorful jus really did taste a bit of the scent of dried hay. I suppose they infuse a bit of hay in the sauce, then strain it out. It gave the veal a gout de terroir, a taste of the country we''ve been walking through; and it was resourceful and imaginative and delicious; and I liked it.
Côtes du Roussillon, Le Grill de Mas Cristine, 2015
Husky, Les Contamines-Montjoie, Haute-Savoie