Torino, July 23, 2016—
Two years ago we found by chance an osteria here that we liked very much, and I decided to return today — for two reasons: to see if it (or I) had changed; and to see what difference would be made by my eating their alone, instead of with the elegant, good-humored woman I've been missing so terribly this last month.
I entered the restaurant promptly at eight o'clock, when it opens for service. This is absurdly early for an Italian restaurant, and for quite a few minutes I was of course alone, facing a television screen I managed to ignore.
I opted for only three items:
Acciughe al bagnetto con crostini di pane e riccioli di burro
Insalate di lattughe, mozzarella, speck, uovo sodo e paté d'olive
Carne cruda alla Piemontese con sedano, noci e scaglie di grana
I chose the anchovies to report on them to Giovanna who adores the Roman version. These were marvelous, the "pesto" thick and strong and substantial. You spread a good quantity of butter on a slice of bread, then heap on the salty anchovy smothered in its sauce, and the whole thing becomes a perfectly integrated thing. One of the Hundred Plates for sure.
The salad was as described, tender yet meaty lettuce standing up well to all the other things, dressed with only salt and olive oil (I forwent the vinegar on offer) and, of course, the healthy serving of olive paste seen at center.
I thought the cruda could have been better: it was a little to cold, as if just brought out of the refrigerator. (Well, it was early in the evening.) I liked the balance, though, between the sweet Piemontese beef, the chopped celery (a fine idea), the finely minced walnuts (ditto) and the Parmesan. This was a big serving and took some time to get through.
Couldn't resist dessert, a simple, pure panna cotta drizzled with caramel.
Favorita; Nebbiolo d'Alba, both in caraffa, both from Azienda Agricola Figlli Manera (Alba), both very nice
Dausin Locanda a Km 0, via Gaita 9 (angolo via Galliari), Torino; +39 011 66 93 933