Another pig

Santa Cruz, California, April 12, 2015—

WE SKIPPED LUNCH today, having had a bigger breakfast than usual at our hotel — a spinach and cheddar cheese omelet, potatoes with green peppers, and a small link sausage. Well, after all, it's Sunday.

So I was hungry at dinner, and ordered perhaps a bit rashly. We were in an Italian restaurant favored by friends of ours who we see far too rarely and it was time to catch up on things. The four of us split a number of antipasti: roasted asparagus with a soft poached egg and romesco; a platter of crostini with various tasty spreads; a delicious roasted artichoke with lemon zest.

Then I went on to a pork shop, seared, served most with its own juice, on a bed of white polenta, and garnished with a healthy serving of apricot chutney, with sautéed carrots, arugula and spinach on the side.

I thought the cheesecake missed the mark — more a panna cotta, though with slightly soured cream and ricotta, than a cake, and I wished it had had more of that delicious candied bergamot garnish. Oh well. On balance, a nice meal, and delicious conversation.

Friulano, Fantinel, Vigneti Sant'Helena (Collio), 2012: delicious, forward, fresh, balanced

• Ristorante Avanti, 1917 Mission Street, Santa Cruz; 831.427.0135
☛Restaurants visited in 2015 are listed at Eatingday's Restaurants