Lentiche

Eastside Road, January 20, 2010—

NOT UNTIL THREE DAYS after Valentine's Day, on the 17th, does Lent begin. We don't wait; we have lentils tonight. I think my fondness for lentils was formed late, not until after Alice opened Chez Panisse, and I frequently had lentil salads for lunch. Later, Victoria opened Pig by the Tail, and prepared lentil salads were on hand there. I don't think I ever had lentils as a small boy, neither at Mom's table nor at her mother's.
So I always associate the taste of lentils with pork — lardons or pancetta or, as tonight, smoked bacon — and the tang of vinegar or lemon juice. And onions of course. And what are carrots for? Their one overriding function is to lend a little bit of color and a little bit less, but still an important amount, of flavor. To a dish of lentils.
Green salad.

Nero d'Avola