Brunch, and a resolution

Eastside Road, January 24, 2010—

BRUNCH TODAY — not my favorite meal, as I've mentioned before — in Sebastopol, because the chef at The French Garden is an artist. We went with a couple of friends, and had, after our Bloody Marys, Eggs Benedict (L); Eggs Florentine (G); Huevos Rancheros (J); and Short-rib and potato hash, with a poached egg atop. That was mine, of course: I can't resist Mark's slow-cooked beef dishes, and wasn't disappointed here. None of us was disappointed, not even John, who pointed out that his huevos were not muy auténtico, but that they were good. (Leaving the restaurant, we bought some frisée for tomorrow's salad; on Sundays the French Garden's (not really French) garden sells produce in a little market in the parking lot.)

But my chief delight today was a delayed putting-into-action of my secret New Year's Resolution: to eat more cheese this year, and to eat it more knowingly, if not necessarily more knowledgeably. To that end on Friday, being in Pt. Reyes Station, I dropped in at Cowgirl Creamery and asked for advice.

The result was a small round wooden box to keep in the refrigerator (and to remember to withdraw an hour or so before dinner!); in it, these three cheeses: a Fourme d'Ambert at the top of the plate, Cowgirl's own Devil's Gulch brie-type at three o'clock, and Pleasant Ridge Reserve Extra-Aged at nine o'clock. With a slice of toast (Pugliese, Downtown Bakery) this made a perfect supper. The Devil's Gulch is soft, creamy, tasting a bit of sweet straw; the Pleasant Ridge recalls a young Amsterdammer though it is more delicate; the Fourme was perfectly au point.

Sauvignon blanc, Viñas Chilenas, 2009 (cheap)