THERE ARE THREE chicken sandwiches, as far as I'm concerned. One is the one I make for myself: chicken breast sliced not too thin on buttered white bread with watercress.
The second is chicken sandwich as it's done by Bakesale Betty (5098 Telegraph Avenue, Oakland). The chicken is breaded and deep-fried: more than that I'm afraid I can't tell you just now, as it's been quite a while since I've been there, but I remember it is very tasty.
The third is the one you see here. I had it today, to break the long drive home from Gasquet. I have to confess that I know the chef-proprietor of this place, a little, not well; he's a friend of my son's, and I've even been to his house. He's from Louisiana and knows Cajun ways intimately. He's just opened this place, and we thought we'd give it a try. Fortunately we very much liked it: it will come in handy on future drives, I know.
The breaded, fried chicken was very well seasoned, and married to a slice of marvelous bacon and a discreet bit of Swiss cheese. I was dubious about the cheese, reading the description, but decided to trust the kitchen. The cheese is more a condiment than a third party to the meats, and that suits me perfectly. There was a good double handful of chopped lettuce on the sandwich, and the bun was soft and rich. A mayonnaise was involved, but I can't tell you much about it: it too was perfectly in balance with the rest of the sandwich. We'll be back.
•Super Chief, 44400 Highway 101, Laytonville (where the Chief Smokehouse used to be)