Lamb shanks

Eastside Road, April 20, 2011—

THE RECIPE IS FROM Richard Olney, as I think I've mentioned before — from Simple French Food. It's so simple that I always have to consult the book to be sure I'm not forgetting something. Here's how I make it:

• two lamb shanks, each cut into two or three slices (depending on their length): salt them, and brown them in hot olive oil in a heavy copper pan, turning them to brown all surfaces. Then turn the heat down as low as possible and throw in
• a head of garlic, the cloves separated but not peeled. Let this cook, tightly covered, very slowly for an hour, turning them now and then. Add
• a teaspoonful or so of Herbes de Provence. Let them continue to stew in their juices. When things begin to sizzle, add a bit of water as necessary.

In an hour and half or so they're done. Take the meat out and set aside on a hot plate. Pour off the fat. Lift the garlic cloves out and put them in a food mill or a sieve. Deglaze the pan with white wine, and add back the garlic which you've sieved of its peelings. Cook this sauce down until quite thick; then put the meat in and turn it to coat each piece.

We always have this with noodles or some kind of pasta — tonight, strozzapreti. On the side, I served leeks and carrots; after, a nice green salad dressed with shallots, olive oil, and lemon juice.

Cheap Pinot grigio