Roast beef

Eastside Road, Christmas Day—

IN FACT IT WAS MORE than simply roast beef, of course. We began with a very fine minestrone, one of the best I've ever tasted. Store-bought, it was; made a few miles south on Stony Point Road by Art Ibleto, the Pasta King. Next on the buffet line — we were eating at Gaye and John's annual Christmas Day buffet — a fine smoked turkey and a delicious prime rib roast. I just salted and peppered it, Gaye said, and roasted it; let the meat speak for itself, say I.

I'm a traditionalist, and to me there are really only two possibilities on Christmas Day: roast goose, or prime rib. This was the first prime rib I'd had in months, perhaps years, and it repaid my abstinence. On the side, a complex cole slaw enlivened with curry powder; for dessert, chocolate cake and Suzi's fine gluten-free lemon bars, made with Meyer lemons.

Sauvignon blanc; Pinot noir