Saturday, April 24, 2010

Back to Bashan

Glendale, April 23—

We really like this pretty little chef-and-hostess restaurant up in the foothills here. The menu is rather small but each dish thoughtfully composed and beautifully cooked. We didn't have a lot of time — there was a play to catch — so we had just one course.

First, though, an amuse-bouche: butternut squash soup served in a shot glass, a small float of first-rate olive oil on top with, in it, a drop of piquillo-infused oil, the whole to be poured over crisp fried onion rings and drunk from a hand-held bowl.

On to the main event: a pan-seared flatiron steak, very nicely rubbed and crusted, with more of those crisp onion rings, on a circle of "corn blini" and served with a succotash of fava beans and fresh corn kernels.

Dessert: I can't resist panna cotta. It came with a topping of pomegranate and cranberry and crossed-sword little langues de chat, very theatrical.

Red, Ten Mile "The Broken Road," 2006: wonderfully deep and complex with fine terroir
  • Bashan, 459 N. Verdugo Road, Glendale, CA; tel. 818-541-1532
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