Ashland, Oregon, March 27—
IN EVERY WAY a complex day, starting with a slice of delicious Colomba at breakfast in Berkeley — a Milanese Easter cake, much like pannetone but lacking candied citrus. With it, raspberries (out of the freezer) and orange segments: I've never tasted that combination before, and I like it.
Lunch at City Gates Restaurant in Orland: tasty as always. A bowl of
calda verde (kale and linguiça in broth), then these four fine
bacalhao croquettes with their piquant sauce.
Vinho verde, Gazela, nv
City Gates Café, 1165 Hoff Way, Orland CA; tel. 530.865.5552
Then on to Ashland where we'll spend nearly a week, and to a restaurant five or six years old but new to us, small, pretty, relaxed, and very competent. We began with good Margaritas and guacamole that was a little bland until we spiced it up with the sauce (half tomatillo, half picante) served on the side. Lindsey went on to black bean and corn salad; I had the cabbage and lime; each of them beautifully flavored with jalapeño, carrots, cilantro and lime juice. She then moved to a chicken and green chile tamal, while I had an absolutely marvelous duck-rillette taco; I could eat three of those every day.
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