Monday, March 1, 2010

Elective Affinities

Eastside Road, March 1, 2010—
A CURIOUS CHOICE for the initiation of a new Category, but there it is. Elective Affinities: those specific combinations of flavors (or, I suppose, textures) which uniquely accompany one another into a kind of transfiguration. Decades ago I read a short story by the immortal Anthony Boucher in which it was casually mentioned that on the first voyage of discovery to the planet Venus that plant was discovered without which the combination of roast lamb, garlic, and rosemary was utterly incomplete — tantalizing. Tony made me appreciate many things: none more than these Elective Affinities of taste.
Okay: tonight's entry is Barley, Butter, and Scallions. That's all there is to it, barring a bit of salt. Lindsey cooks the barley as if it were risotto — yes, no doubt the stock's important too. The scallions are sliced, lightly sautéed, and added at the end. Delicious.
Sauvignon blanc, Viñas Chilenas, 2009 (nice and grassy)

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