Roodsaus

Fusilli; [canned] tomato, onion, olive oil, black pepper, bay leaves, Parmesan cheese; green salad

THAT'S REALLY ABOUT ALL you need to say about it, just the ingredients. Lindsey likes to sweat the chopped onion in olive oil at a high enough temperature to make them crisp and quite dark, some of them, around the edges; then she squeezes in canned whole tomatos from between her fingers, adds a couple of leaves from the bay tree on the patio, and a few grinds of black pepper.

The pasta cooks in salted water, is then drained, and the sauce added. The Parmesan is grated on top of each serving.

Red and Green: the green salad follows, with a slice of bread for me. (I always think of Lindsey's father, who turned to me one day, when I served the salad, with the simple query: Got any bread? He was quite right: salad sans bread is unthinkable.

Preston Vineyards Carignane 2005