From the market

favas; potatoes with green garlic; petrale sole in black butter; garden salad with spring onions

WE'RE LUCKY HERE IN HEALDSBURG to have a fine local farm market. Saturday morning we bought favas, spring onions, and green garlic from farms close enough almost to walk to, and Petrale sole caught the day before out in the local Pacific. No salmon this year, and that's a pity: the season's been shut down the entire year, in hopes the salmon will recover. But halibut and sole are running, and they're delicious.

Lindsey cooked the favas in water with a little butter (and salt, of course), and smashed up the potatoes with the green garlic and a little olive oil. The fish was pan-fried in the black iron skillet in butter that she'd let go dark, then dressed with a Meyer lemon from the tree out the kitchen door. An absolutely delicious dinner.

Bianco di Custoso Corte Gardoni 2006