Sunday, May 25, 2008

Red meat

San Francisco, May 24--
Agretti with goat cheese and harissa; grilled beef and potatoes

YOU CAN'T REALLY COUNT boiled ham in a delicatessen cellophane-wrapped sandwich: so, I say, tonight was the first red meat in eight days, which is probably good for me.

It was at a friend's house in San Francisco. We began with agretti (Google it: in English, it's apparently called saltwort), odd green stalks that grow in salt-marshes, tasting something like pea-pods, something like asparagus, something like nothing else in the world, with a hunk of nice goat cheese and a dollop of harissa to spice things up.

The beefsteak was enormous, surely four inches thick, perfectly grilled on the charcoal. It was followed by four cheeses, including an amazing Graystone from Wisconsin, stinky and smooth; and for dessert cherries and raspberries. I won't mention the five wines (there were six of us at table); it'll arouse envy.

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