Bombay Cafe

lunch: Masala Dosa, Naan, Sambar
Bombay Café: 12021 West Pico Blvd., Los Angeles; tel. 310.473.3388

WE WERE INTRODUCED TO THIS PLACE a few years ago by our friends Jim and Lisa, and it's a place we return to -- especially if we're going to be in the vicinity. You don't go to Bombay Café for the atmosphere. You go for deep, rich flavors, naan and dosas with perfect textures, and a relaxed time. Nothing's more casual. We started with a ginger-beer Pimm's Cup, and it all worked out just fine. Cheap, too.



Then we imposed on an old acquaintance not seen in years for dinner: fish skewered with peppers, tomatoes, onions, and zucchini, with yellow potatoes, all on the charcoal grill; and a fine salad, heavy on the mâche; and mango-blood-orange Ciao Bella gelato, with a bottle of Fess Parker viogner recalling Chateau Grillet. Los Angeles has its delicious evenings.