Sunday, October 2, 2016

Modernizing the traditional

 

San Pietro Val Lemina, October 1, 2016—


Once again I looked into slow food's Osteria d'Italia app for a nearby restaurant, to find only one, said to feature a "chef che concilia con maestria tradizione e modernità". 


Well, why not reconcile tradition and modernity, I thought, the chef had the right to avoid boredom. But the result here is problematic, in my opinion. 


We began by sharing antipasti: gli stuzzichini caldi

 

 II tortino di patate e lardo al rosmarino

 Il savarin di tomo con vellutata al tartufo

 II tortino di cavolo rosso con bagna caoda leggeraI

I then went on to


i fagottini delle erbette al bianco di porri e pomodorino


And 

Il cosciotto di agnello alla cerea


Let me translate and comment:


The three stuzzichini were subtle, delicious, and expertly made — the first the best, I thought: mashed potato with slightly dark lardo, flavored with rosemary.


The cheese savarin, almost a quiche, lay under a saucc flavored with black truffle.


The red-cabbage-and-salt-cod tortino, like the first more of a sformatura, was my favorite of the three because of the solidity of its texture. But the problem with the course was its similarity of textures; there was too little variety to let each of these dishes play off the others.


In fact my "liittle bundles" of vegetable mousse had the same consistency (in both senses). Like the stuzzichini, it was veiled with its own sauce, different from all the others but not really particularly distinguishable. 

 

Then came my secondo, lamb shoulder (I think) with roast potatoes and an ingeniosly sliced, fanned, and stuffed half zucchini. I have no idea what alla cerea means and Dr. Google is not helping; it can't have anything to do with wax. The meat was substantial, dense, well flavored.


Dessert, of course: I can't resist Bavarian cream. This one had a scatter of crushed pine nuts on top, and came with a delicious gelato in a cup of slightly sweet white wine and a couple of slices of very good peach. This was that rare thing, an Italian dinner that got better and better as it went on.


 

Malvasia, Blanc de Lissart, Le Marie (Barge), ?2015

Nebbiolo d'Alba, Ochetti, Renato Ratti, 2014 (in half bottle)

Both wines quite delicious


Il Ciabot, Via Costa 7, Roletto (TO); +39 0121 542132

3 comments:

Joan said...

According to Google Maps & Wiki "Cerea is a town and comune in the province of Verona, Veneto, northern Italy."

Maybe that's it.

Charles Shere said...

The people at an adjacent table at last night's restaurant said that cerea is dialect for an herb rather like marjoram. Satureja, in botanical Latin; you can see how that would devolve to cerea.

Joan said...

That's really cool.

Wiki has Satureja hortensis defined as Summer Savory 'Savory plays an important part in Georgian, Bulgarian and Italian cuisine, particularly when cooking beans.' 'Related to rosemary & thyme.'

I've heard of the tradition of cooking beans with savory but have not tried it myself, nor grown savory in the garden.

Have fun.