Litro

 

Rome, October 14, 2016—

BACK TO A FAMILIAR spot tonight to celebrate getting together with our Roman granddaughter, who lives nearby and lunches here frequently. As its name suggests, it's as much a wine bar as an eating spot, and its menu is on the short side.

It is also very much on the enterprising side, with surprising, sometimes jarring (to conservative and aging me) combinations of ingredients. (The wines, too, tend toward the unsual, with a heavy concentration of "natural" and biodynamic wines.)

 

After a fairly tiring drive today I was in the mood for something light, and was happy to find a simply cooked baccala on the blackboard, served with potatoes and capers. It was clean, straightforward, and balanced, just right.

Afterward, another simple choice: a crostata da marmellata, apricot jam in this case, no doubt more commercial than "artisanal," but perfectly satisfying.

 

"Bianco antico", Vej, Podere Pradarolo, 2015: a dusty orange color, unfiltered, long-fermented with the skins, unusual and in fact quite good

Litro, Via Fratelli Bonnet 5, Rome; +39 06 45447639