New Sammy's

Ashland, Oregon, April 13, 2012—

I DON'T REMEMBER WHEN we first ate here. Certainly more than fifteen years ago, because we celebrated our fortieth anniversary here in 1997. Each time we come I think it can never be better, and each time it is. New Sammy's is certainly one of the Five Restaurants; its meals, events, ingredients, wines are never anything but memorable.

Tonight's dinner surpassed all the others, I think. It began with a disarming little amuse-gueule involving grape ice, continued to an absolutely amazing composed salad with prosciutto, apple, walnuts, Parmesan flan, mixed greens, walnut oil, and sherry vinegar; and climaxed with the most delicious lamb chops I've had in ages, perfectly broiled, and served with a most amazing, subtle, silky, intelligent side dish combining spinach, orzo, black mint, and a lemon-custard sauce.

The dessert was utterly perfect: plum linzer torte with Slivovitz-flavored ice cream, paired with the uniquely appropriate wine.

Charlene Rollins, the chef of New Sammy's, combines equal parts of genius, artist, and philosopher; her intelligence and ethical refinement match her admirable hand and palate. There is no restaurant that pleases me more than this one, or more consistently, and I am grateful beyond measure for a providence beyond my comprehension allowing me to return, year after year.

Pinot grigio, Collio, 2009 (I think); Bordeaux, Château Malbat, 2007; Bodegas Olivares Jumilla Dulce Monastrell (Murcia), 2006

• New Sammy's Cowboy Bistro, 2210 South Pacific Highway, Talent, Oregon; 541-535-2779