In and out and round about

Pasadena, April 21, 2012—

THE AFTERNOON WAS GIVEN, to whim and caprice: we drove across town to take unsuspecting friends to the Museum of Jurassic Technology, which no contemplative person should fail to visit at least once in his life. But they wanted lunch as well, which we had planned to skip. We parked under dusty jacarandas near the museum. Two young couple stood nearby, cardboard cups of unknown beverages in their hands:

What's the best place nearby for lunch? Well, we like the In-N-Out…

So for the second time in my adult life I had a fast-food hamburger. The first was many years ago at a MacDonald's, the one on the Champs-Elysées in Paris; I recall nothing of it. This one today was, well, not disgusting: a small patty with a good slice of onion and a handful of healthy chopped iceberg lettuce, a no-taste tomato slice, and a pleasantly gloppy sauce. The French-fries tasted of potato, also pleasant, though they might have been crisper. With all this, a glass of milk.
• In-N-Out Burger , 9245 W Venice Blvd., Los Angeles; (800)786-1000

WE MADE UP FOR THIS at dinner by returning to the scene of last night's meal. This time I had a delicious soup, rather more a velouté I would say, involving white asparagus, shallot I think, cream, a trace perhaps of nutmeg, and lemon, as silky and perfectly flavored an asparagus soup as I have ever had, with a float of finely grated zest, a judicious sprinkle of finely chopped chives, and a puddle of smooth olive oil.

Afterward, steak tartare, already bound with egg and chopped shallot, a nice combination of flavors and textures; and then a chocolate decadence, deep and rich. And then a terrible performance of Antony and Cleopatra. Oh well.

Martini

• Bistro 45, 45 S Mentor Ave., Pasadena; (626) 795-2478