IT MAKES A FAIRLY frequent appearance on our table, Frequent Visitor will know: Marion Cunningham's barley risotto, made with shallots and butter. This is one of those happy dishes depending on Elective Affinities, like lamb, rosemary, and garlic.
And after the green salad (and surely oil, vinegar, and salt is another example) we had another for dessert: vanilla ice cream with applesauce. If buttered bread and applesauce deserves a name — apple Charlotte — then this dish, even simpler and more domestic, deserves one to. Unfortunately I'm not in a poetic mood at the moment. When the name strikes me, I'll let you know.
☛RESTAURANTS VISITED, with information and rating: