Monday, 1:30 pm: the place was cool and nearly empty; a few tables were occupied out on the patio, but only one other inside, where we preferred the cool air and the quiet, inviting room. We began with margaritas, of course; then I went on to something substantial: Bistec Yucanteco, slowly braised beef in a thick Yucatan sauce with cubed potatoes, covered with tomato sauce and a few slices of raw red onion. This was piquant and satisfying, and so were the braised vegetables alongside: zucchini and summer squash, snow peas, green beans.
The plate is flanked with the inevitable rice and beans — black beans with a smoky, deep flavor; short-grain rice. A nice dish.
•Mateo's Cocina Latina, 214 Healdsburg Avenue, Healdsburg; 707-433-1520