Sausalito Italian

Sausalito, May 1, 2014:—

STOPPED OFF to sit out the commute traffic with an early supper at a place we'd never before visited, in this pretty little town we almost never stop at. We were the first diners on a warm bayside evening, and the bartender was still setting things up when I interrupted him with a request for a Fernet and soda.

The menu was part Piemontese, part Siciliano, at least to my eye; but when I queried the hostess, a member of the family that's owned the place for lo these many years, "Naples," she said, with a gracious smile, and I looked forward to my pasta.

First, though, this salad, with perfectly acceptable little torn lettuce leaves and shavings of cheese and a good vinaigrette and toasted almonds. I told you there was a bit of Sicily here.

The pasta was house-made: Cavatelli with ricotta Amatriciana, in a nicely spiced tomato sauce with pancetta and onions, and here we were definitely in Calabria, and I was happy, even though we had ordered a bottle of white wine.

Desserts? Why not? Bonet for Lindsey — that was what had made us think Piemontese — and very nice, though based on coffee, not chocolate. And Tiramisu for me, if you please, and it was very good. I would certainly return.

Catarratto, Purato (Sicily), 2012: crisp, nicely flavored, good body

• Angelino Restaurant, 621 Bridgeway, Sausalito; (415) 331-5225