Peruvian

Eastside Road, February 10, 2012—

BACK TO A PLACE we'd visited last July, with the same couple of friends: a Peruvian place, seating only twenty at tables and another six at the counter, in a strip mall on the edge of town. We began with a truly delicious Ahi ceviche, with soy, diced onions and jalapeños, cilantro, huacatay, sesame seeds and oil, and avocado: but the sea-strong tuna ruled the dish as it should have: perfect. I thought the fried yuca was bland and lacked salt, nor was it lifted much by the aji huacatay "aioli" that came with it.

My Lomo Saltado, though, was complex and forward and pointed, all the flavor you could ask: wok-fried tenderloin steak strips, onion, tomato, cilantro, soy sauce, vinegar; with house-cut fries. I'd gladly have sacrificed the big ice-cream scoop of white rice, oddly and unfortunately tasting of tap-water, for a few more fries. But this is a nice place, comfortable, friendly, and lord knows inexpensive.

Syrah, Intipalka (Peru), 2009: good varietal scent; nice balance; weighty

• Sazón Peruvian Cuisine, 1129 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa, California; (707) 523-4346