Marius again

Amsterdam, February 24, 2011—

CERTAINLY AMONG THE FIVE, and closing in its present incarnation in a couple of weeks: get here soon.

Or wait a bit, as it'll reopen before you know it, only a few doors down the street, a little bigger but with the same team turning out, I'm sure, the same great stuff. The table d'hôte, at €47 I believe, involves three savory courses and dessert: tonight

fish salad, deliciously lukewarm, with poached red mullet, lettuce, purslane, blood orange, and fennel
grilled snoekbaars (perch?) with tapenade and Romanesco
quail stuffed with an agrodolci involving almonds, raisins, and don't recall what (I'd been nearly thirty hours traveling)
many good cheeses
almond tarte

Saumur, Domaine des Guyons, 2010; Langhe, Tre Stelle, 2009 (very beautiful young wines, both of them); "Escapade," Pays d'Oc, 2009 (soft and rich)

• Marius, Barentszstr. 243, Amsterdam; tel. 020 422 7880
Kees Elfring, chef-proprietor, at Marius