Fish and Chips

medford, Oregon, July 9, 2011—

I LIKE SHOESTRINGS, I said. Matchsticks, she said. Right, matchsticks, that's what I said, I like matchsticks, I said.

We're talking French-fries here, "chips" to the Brits — I have no idea what they call potato chips; Pringles, perhaps. In any case, the inevitable & necessary accompaniment to bits of fish, battered, dredged, and deep-fried: a dish hereby promoted to the Hundred Plates.

Oddly, the waitress offered to "upgrade" my order to halibut. Suspicious, I asked from what it would be upgraded. Cod. Oh, no, I much prefer cod, I said, happily. They were quite nice: not greasy, decent cod flavor, nice light batter.

They're probably frozen, L. said, and probably the better for it.

Before, a watery Martini, then a nice gloppy Clam chowder; with, a sweet cole slaw.

Sauvignon blanc, Mohua (New Zealand), 2009 (grassy and a little strident)

• Porter's, 147 N. Front St., Medford, Oregon; 541.857.1910

LUNCH HAD BEEN a delicious carnitas taco from a truck parked outside a corner store in Calistoga. Delicious.