Evoe; party

Portland, Oregon, July 16, 2011—

Lunch at a tapas sort of place down on Hawthorne, in one of Portland's innumerable Gourmet Ghettoes. I had a delicious Gallego, a Portuguese (cannes) sardine with a hot pepper-onion-aioli piperade, a few leaves of tepid spinach on the side to cool things down. Messy, but memorably tasty.

Cune Monopole Blanco, 2010: dry, minerals, like an ordinary Muscadet at first, opening to a fine accompaniment to the sandwich.

•Evoe, 3731 Southeast Hawthorne Boulevard, Portland; (503) 232-1010

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BASTILLE DAY, two days late: party at the home of our friends Joe and Karen:

fava dip
almonds
cheeses
radishes
scallions
olives
salt cod fritters with aïoli
hanger steak off the grill
tuna steak
chiogga beets
green beans
potatoes
arugula

Pink Champagne; Rosé; Gigondas 1999 (double magnum).