Back in Ashland

Ashland, Oregon, July 18, 2011—

WE DRAGGED INTO TOWN at seven-thirty, dinnertime, and fell right into the closest place for dinner. It's changed in the last couple of years: an ordinary upscale pasta-and-pizza place has grown more "sophisticates," its provender more trendy. I was content with a serving of "ciabatta" that turned out to be nearly a pound loaf of white bread, with a nice runny parsley pesto on the side, and a seared tuna and white bean salad. Perfectly acceptable.

Grillo/Viognier, Sicily, 2009

• Pasta Piatti, 358 East Main Street, Ashland, Oregon; (541) 488-5493