Ordinary osteria

Corte della Pazienza, Venice, June 8, 2011—

HUNGRY AFTER A LONG HOUR looking at art in the Ca' d'Oro, I asked the guy at the ticket window if Alla Vedova weren't nearby. Si, signor, right around the corner, he said; but there was something about the set of his mouth made me press for more information. Is it still good? Oh yes, still good, but still expensive.

Yes, I said: but can you find something that's good and not expensive? Of course, he said, eat where I eat: go down to the Campo S. Apostoli, turn left, take the first little street to the left; there are a couple of places, both good, both inexpensive.

We wound up at AE Soree (I can't explain the name): I liked the place for its €15 menu, for its name written in chalk on the soffit, and for the many ballpoint drawings made directly on the walls. We started with spaghetti al ragù, and I went on to braciole: a thin pork cutlet, simply pan-fried in olive oil, flavored only with salt and lemon juice. Simple and delicious. With it, typical inexpensive verdure cotte, slow-cooked beans, peas, and green beans, with half a tomato stuffed with bread crumbs and set under the fire.

The drawings turned out to have been made by one of the regular customers, a gondolier. I don't remember hearing any English spoken except at our table — but then, there was hardly anyone else eating: it was already two o'clock in the afternoon.

White wine in carafe

• Osteria AE Soree, Cannaregio 4371 (Calle dell'Oca); 041.5238052


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