Bancogiro

Corte della Pazienza, June 11, 2011
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TEN YEARS AGO one of our memorable meals here in Venice was in Italy. In truth, if I don't consult notes, the two things I remember are checking it out via a quick bite and a glass of wine while L. was shopping nearby, and the bottle of Collio we had with our dinner. The notes add a bit to this:

very romantic room overlooking the Canale Grande. Ombrina (a local fish, one of the best) with cherry tomatoes & basil; zuicchini al limone; pan cotto; Prosecco. Memorable.

This time we were ushered upstairs to the very same table whose grilled window overlooked the Canale Grande. I started with Tagliatelle nere con sarde, uvetta e pinoli — tagilatelle with inkfish ink, sardines, grapes, and pine nuts, which seems to me a very Venitian combination — and finished with a selection of

six very nice cheeses, I'm sorry, my Italian wasn't quick enough to catch the names apart from Robiola, stagionata, di mucca, e così; with a drizzle of balsamico and two little pots of conserves: sweet fig, piquant pepper-tomato. And, of course, a fine bottle of

Collio, Borgo del Tiglio, 2008

• Bancogiro, Campo San Giacometto, 122, 30125 San Polo, Venezia; 041 5232061