Birthday dinner

Corte della Pazienza, Venice, June 7, 2011—

FIDDLING AROUND WITH your fourth quarter-century brings Pazienza to mind: what better place to celebrate a 76th? So we did something we haven't done in weeks: actually reserved a table in a restaurant.

A nearby one, because we knew we'd be late; knew it would likely rain, and suspected high water. In the end, only the first-listed transpired.

We began with the house appetizer, a platter of periwinkles, squid, little fish, a good-sized prawn, a scallop-shell filled with goodies including of course scallop, baccalà, and arugula. We went on to pasta: mine was spaghetti carbonara, and was nearly as good as eating in Trastevere.

Some of us, but not the birthday girl, went on to yet another course: fritto misto: squid, shrimp and prawn (which I did not eat), fish; and verdure cotte: eggplant, porcini, and — oddly — Brussels sprouts, all of them quite delicious.

We liked this place. A snug pretty room, good service, nice cooking, clean and attractive, with an authentic Venetian feel. I'd come back any time.

White wine in carafe (and very good it was)

• Casa Bonita, Sestiere Cannaregio, 492, Venezia; 041 5246164