Altanella

Corte della Pazienza, Venice, June 15, 2011—

COUNTING DOWN NOW, we dined tonight at a place we liked last time we were here, over on the Giudecca. Like so much of Venice, it's changed a bit, responding to an evolution in tourism: whether because of Rick Steves, or the internet, Word Gets Out in a different way; a different kind of feedback loop is generated; everything seems to get more sophisticated, with problematic results. (Cf. yesterday's entry, and Curtis's comment, which I'll address as soon as I can.)

In any case: I started with sarde in saor, the sardines firmer than usual (which means house-made rather than store-bought, but not made far enough in advance, as Murano Shopkeeper had warned me), but the flavor very good.


I went on to sogliole fritti, two nice little lagoon fish grilled on a hot grill and served with lemon. Alas, we were among the first diners served; the grill was evidently really hot, and the fish were badly scorched at the grill-marks, giving the sweet flesh a smoky, iron-tasting quality — and the fish was a little dry.

But, Oh, lordy me, the dessert. I had this “grappa gelato with grapes,” which turned out to be a crema gelato with a wonderful grappa poured over it, and at least three different kinds of raisins, plumped up with many hours' soaking in the same grappa. It was so good that Lindsey, after she had tasted mine, ordered one for herself. It was without a doubt by far the best dessert we've had in Venice. The best gelato, for that matter. I may take the vaporetto out there again, a long trip, just for another dish.

White wine in carafe

• Altanella, Sestiere Giudecca, 268, Venice; 041 5227780