Via M. Dionigi, Rome, Nov. 19—
Bigoli, Ve Roma
Out to the Trieste quarter, to the northeast, to see Santa Agnese fuori le mure (and well worth the bus ride it was), and where then to eat? Gambero Rosso suggested this trendy new-style resto whose name is a pun on Verona, because the cuisine is Veronese. We were pleased with the bread, first of all; rolls and wafers and grissini all made in house. And then the menu was promising. I took from it first Coppa di maile, which turned out to be more headcheese than salume, and came with delicious little cut-up puntarelle; and then Bigoli al torchio, house-made pasta with bits of duck and fried radicchio — quite a delicious dish. The desserts were a little silly, we thought; my chocolate mousse came hiding in a pyramid of wafers and accompanied by a shot-glass of raspberry purée glued to the plate with more chocolate mousse (which was made, by the way, with a generous amount of olive oil).
Frascati bianco: Santa Teresa, 2006
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