Monday, November 17, 2008

Paris in Rome

Via Corsini, Rome, Nov. 16—

  • Paris, piazza San Calisto 7a; tel. 06/5815378

  • paris.JPG
    Ristorante Paris, Trastevere

    WE HAD EATEN HERE before; it was a place I particularly liked, and it couldn't be more convenient: right off the Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere. And last week I bought a guidebook to Rome restaurants, Gambero Rosso, and there it received a decent rating. And it's open Sunday noon; not all are. So for Hans and Anneke's last Rome dinner for a while there was nothing more to say.
    I opened with rigatoni alla matriciana, with delicious tomatoes that managed to be both sweet and pungent, and just the right balance of cheese; and went on to that echt Roman dish stracchetti, "scraps" of meat — baby beef in this case — in light brown sauce, with plenty of porcini mushrooms, all on a bed of crisp clean dry arugula. I shared Lindsey's crisp-fried-flattened artichoke alla giudea, and for dessert a fine tiramisu. The best place we've eaten in, except maybe Ditirambo, Hans said. Why "Paris"? It's the given name of the chef; has nothing to do with France.
    Frascati in bicchiere; Lazio Merlot "Togale," 2007

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