Via Corsini, Rome, Nov. 9—
Lindsey (center) checks out the fish display at La Campana
MIDDAY DINNER TODAY at La Campana (vicolo Campana 18; tel. 06.867.820), and a good thing I phoned in the morning: it was jammed. When we arrived, though, just a little late, Hans and Anneke had worried expressions: no reservation. Oh, I said, that's because I made it in the name of Consolini, Shere is just too difficult for the Italian ear on the telephone. There was our table, in a handsome plain room that quickly filled with three-generation families, babies, ancient women in wheelchairs, and at a nearby table a small lapdog. I had ravioli stuffed with artichoke and served in a very light and creamy tomato sauce, then grilled calve's liver, sweet and succulent; Lindsey had risotto with shrimp and squid, then puntarelle. Readers of my fine book Roman Letters will have realized by now that we're revisiting restaurants sampled four years ago: so far, no reason to change my opinions. Campana's one of the best.
Frascati Superiore "Fontana dei Mori" 2007; red table wine in carafe
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