Monday, November 17, 2008

da Cesare

Via Corsini, Rome, Nov. 17—

  • Da Cesare, via Crescenzia 13; tel. 06/6861227

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    Da Cesare, via Crescenzia, Prati

    ANOTHER GAMBERO ROSSO pick: we'd just settled into our hotel in the Prati, a short block off the Piazza Cavour, and were hungry; da Cesare was just the other end of the piazza. A nice, understatedly elegant dining room; very correct waiters and busboy; appetizing displays of vegetables and seafood in the entry. But I settled for perfectly Roman fare in this Tuscan-slanted restaurant, opening with spaghetti alla corbonara and going on to saltimbocca alla romana, with a roman-style artichoke on the side. The spaghetti was beautifully cooked, perhaps the best-cooked pasta I've had these three weeks, and the "bacon" — guanciale, I'm pretty sure — had deep flavor. The saltimbocca turned out to be two nicely sized thin-sliced fillets of veal, covered with well-chosen prosciutto, the requisite sage leaf hidden between, the whole in a light but not thin brown cream sauce; and the artichoke, warm, standing in a pool of the best olive oil I've had yet, was a perfect accompaniment.
    Vino bianco in carafa

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