Thursday, November 20, 2008

Da Gino

Via M. Dionigi, Rome, Nov. 18—

  • Da Gino, vicolo Rosini 4, Rome; tel. 06/6873434

  • MIDDAY DINNER in the Campo di Marzio again, on a street so tiny we could hardly walk two abreast. (If you want to find it, it's south and a little east of the Piazza Borghese.) Gambero Rosso cites Gino for superb pasta alla gricia, that is, with bacon and cheese, but I was hungrier and ordered spaghetti alla carbonara, which adds scrambled eggs to the mix. Breakfast pasta, you might say. The eggs were a bit overcooked, I thought, but the pasta and the cheese were superb. With it, two contorni, side dishes of vegetables: the best artichoke yet, Roman style, and a plate of superbly fresh Swiss chard. Nothing fancy, absolutely correct, as Gambero says.
    Frascati bianco: Racemo, 2007

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