Sunday, April 17, 2016

Reliable

Caesar salad

anchovies and parmesan

San Francisco, April 15, 2016—

UNEXPECTED NEW PLEASURES are a joy, no question about it: so are the returns of very familiar ones. Among them, the early supper at Zuni.

We got there about 4:30, Companion, a couple of old friends, and I, and I settled into my routine. A very good Martini (gin, three to one, up, well shaken, twist of lemon). A plate of anchovies, Parmesan, celery, and olives. The Caesar salad — no quote marks needed here: this one is still my standard for an authentic Caesar. And a hamburger, rare, on its focaccia bread.

We had rather a riotous time, the four of us, with a visit from Gilbert who was doing chef duty today, and a spilled second Martini, and lots and lots of shoestring French fries. I have liked this place for forty years or so, and I continue to like it, and think I always will…

Zuni Café, 1658 Market Street, San Francisco; 415-552-2522

RESTAURANTS VISITED, with information and rating:  2016   2015

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