UNEXPECTED NEW PLEASURES are a joy, no question about it: so are the returns of very familiar ones. Among them, the early supper at Zuni.
We got there about 4:30, Companion, a couple of old friends, and I, and I settled into my routine. A very good Martini (gin, three to one, up, well shaken, twist of lemon). A plate of anchovies, Parmesan, celery, and olives. The Caesar salad — no quote marks needed here: this one is still my standard for an authentic Caesar. And a hamburger, rare, on its focaccia bread.
We had rather a riotous time, the four of us, with a visit from Gilbert who was doing chef duty today, and a spilled second Martini, and lots and lots of shoestring French fries. I have liked this place for forty years or so, and I continue to like it, and think I always will…
Zuni Café, 1658 Market Street, San Francisco; 415-552-2522