Portland, January 2, 2014—
STEAK-FRITES MUST SURELY be among the Hundred Plates. Together with duck confit and salade Lyonnaise, they define, for me, the Parisian bistro. Beef, butter, salt, red wine: a perfect quadrifecta of things thought not to be good for you — ex ept that, excuse me, in fact they are good for you, in moderation; they build up the blood and muscle as well as — I'm convinced of this — the nerves, and Iuppiter knows we all need plenty of nerve these days.
I write this, as I'm sure some of you will guess, a couple of days later, delayed by a six-hundred-mile drive, visits, cares, and miscellaneous delights. So I'll imevitably be forgetting things, in spite of a resolution to do better by note-taking. Suffice it to say: decent Martini, engaging waiter, great company, fine bread (after all, this place belongs to Portland's arguably premier bread-baker), good salad, fine steak-frites. I'd come back here any time.
• Trifecta Tavern, 726 SE 6th Ave, Portland; (503) 841-6675