Saturday, January 11, 2014

Downstairs Chez Panisse

Berkeley, January 10, 2014— 

WHAT A FINE DINNERConventional, you might say; comforting and perfectly conceived and executed, I respond. We dined with two dear old friends from the 1960s, and we were served — splendidly —

apéritif: KIr

Yellowtail carpaccio with olio nuovo and shaved vegetable salad

Brandade feuilleté wilh black truffles

Rosé Bandol, domaine Tempier

Leg of lamb cooked à la ficelle in the fireplace with roasted garlic sauce, erbette chard gratin, and fried artichokes

Bordeaux, Saint-Julien: Château Gruaud Larose, 1990

Pistachio, Meyer lemon, and clementine gâteau glacé 

•Chez Panisse, 1517 Shattuck Avenue, Berkeley; 510-548-5525

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