THERE ARE ALL these joints called Joe's. New Joe's, Original Joe's, Marin Joe's… you get the idea. Not quite roadhouse, certainly not white-tablecloth, they are in a way the old-fashioned family restaurant, with vaguely Italian fare, steaks, chops, pasta, sea food; middle-aged no-nonsense service, bar, booths. A species endangered by the rise of chains like Adell's and Olive Garden.
We stopped off at one en route to the airport tonight. My sand dabs were okay, pan fried in butter, with mixed vegetables and roast potatoes on the side. Dessert? Spumoni, of course…
House Pinot grigio
• Marin Joe's, 1585 Casa Buena Dr, Corte Madera, California; 415-924-2081
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