Hotel Bristol, Luxembourg-Ville, March 10, 2012—
MIDDAY MEAL: AND LET'S make it an ethnic restaurant this time, okay? How about Um Dierfgen? What could be more ethnic than that?
A nice old-fashioned place spread out on at least two floors and a mezzanine, with a hidden kitchen, not many waiters, no busboys. Lindsey had cod, but I took my cue from the easel-sign out on the street and had. Venison ragoût, deep and rich with mushrooms; and on the side, tender, tasty spätzle, potatoes Duchesse, and fine long-cooked red cabbage — and a garnish of cooked apple slices with redcurrant jelly. Who could want dessert?
White, then red house wine, nv
•Um Dierfgen, 6, côte d'Eich, Luxembourg; 22 61 41
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