Avenue George V, Nice, March 20, 2012—
ANOTHER FISH SOUP today? Mais oui! For one thing, its interesting to compare an ordinary quayside versioin in a workingclass town like La Ciotat with a more elegant version at the other end of the scale. Mainly, though, of course, I'm maniacal about Provençal soupe de poissons.
I began with a tartare of tuna, a delicious fish, expertly combined with concassée of tomatoes, judicious amounts of capers and thin-sliced scallions, and lemon juice. Then the soup, made just as Monday's but combining two soups at the last minute, red and darker, hearty, mellifluous, deep, and pointed. Marvelous.
Chassagne-Savigny, Bouchard et fils, 2009
•La Mére Germain, Quai Courbet, Villefranche-sur-mer
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