Mixed grill

Vielsalm, Belgium, March 2, 2012—

THIS WEEK HARDLY any businesses seem to be open here; nothing seems to be happening. Only one other room in our hotel is occupied, and its restaurant, as you see, is nearly empty.

The desk clerk assured us dinner would be served, though. The chef proposes a mixed grill, he added, and that sounded okay with us. We sat down a little before eight, to see this menu:




The potage was don't-waste-anything soup, as I used to make it: leek leaves, asparagus stubs, broccoli stumps, too-old carrots, thrown into the blender and made somehow to taste good. The mixed grill involved chicken, beal, lamb, pork, and beef, all surrounding a baked potato glorious in its aluminum-foil shirt. With it, four sauces, and a green salad.

I liked the chocolate "fondont," which I'd have called marquises, and the crème anglaise was nice, but the crème Chantilly had turned and was inedible. Oh well: you can't be perfect.

Chinon, Domaine du Roncée, 2010

•La Table de Marie, rue du Vieux Marché 1, Vielsalm (Belgium); +32 080/67 22 85

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